Category: Laser Services

Any smartie Sapien babe knows the importance of sunscreen compliance and reapplication. As an SPF lover myself I’ve basically mastered reapplying and overcoming any obstacle that could come between me and my sunscreen. Wearing makeup? No biggie. Can’t wash your hands? We can get around that. Forgot? Set a timer, easy peasy. I could do this all day. There are multiple methods of reapplication; lotion, spray, powder, stick, or UPF clothing. Once you have a clear understanding of the reason why you need to reapply and design a strategy that works for your lifestyle, you’ll never look back.

Why Reapply?

Source: The Skin Cancer Foundation

“Unlike with a UPF hat or sunglasses, sunscreen’s effectiveness against ultraviolet (UV) rays doesn’t remain constant.

A sunscreen’s Sun Protection Factor (SPF) measures how well the product will protect you from the sun’s UVB rays— the type of UV that is primarily responsible for sunburn. For example, if your unprotected skin begins to burn within 20 minutes of sun exposure, applying an SPF 15 sunscreen would theoretically keep your skin from burning 15 times longer: 300 minutes, or about five hours. But experts agree that no sunscreen can remain completely effective for that long, as active ingredients degrade over time. This is why dermatologists and The Skin Cancer Foundation recommend reapplying sunscreen at least every two hours, regardless of the formula, SPF, or brand of the product.

Sun Protection Factor (SPF)

SPF is a measure of how much solar energy (UV radiation) is required to produce sunburn on protected skin (i.e., in the presence of sunscreen) relative to the amount of solar energy required to produce sunburn on unprotected skin. As the SPF value increases, sunburn protection increases.

• Apply Sunscreen 30 Minutes Before Going Outside. This is particularly important if you’re using a chemical sunscreen, because it takes time for the skin to absorb the chemical filters that help protect you. Regardless of the type of sunscreen you use, applying sunscreen well before you go outside is a good habit to get into, so you don’t end up being exposed to the sun before remembering to apply sunscreen.
• Use the Right Amount. Studies have shown that many people apply only half (or even a quarter!) of the amount of sunscreen they should be using for full effectiveness. You should go through sunscreen bottles pretty quickly if you’re applying the correct amount—an ounce, or about a shot glass full, should be sufficient for the entire body. And you should be reapplying the same amount throughout the day.
• Apply it Everywhere. Speaking of the entire body, that’s where sunscreen should be applied! It’s easy to forget about spots like the top of your ears or the back of your neck, but those spots are common places for skin cancers. It’s especially important to liberally apply sunscreen to the face, since the skin there is thinner, and often highly exposed to UV rays. Finally, apply sunscreen before donning your clothes or swimsuit; otherwise, it’s easy to miss a spot at the edges of the clothing.
• Reapply Immediately After Swimming or Sweating. Even if you put sunscreen on right before you jump in the pool then dry off, you should reapply right away. No sunscreen is truly waterproof — though there are great water-resistant formulas available — and toweling off means you’re wiping away the sun protection afforded by the product you used.
• Don’t Rely on Sunscreen for Complete Protection. Sunscreen is just one part of an effective sun protection plan. It’s an important one, but no method alone is foolproof. That’s why The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends seeking shade and covering up with hats, sunglasses and clothing in addition to daily sunscreen use.”

At Sapien, we’ve researched and tested tons of sunscreen products in order to deliver you the very best and make light protection easy, enjoyable, and effective. Read below for some SPF tips from me to you, categorized by method of reapplication. Click any photo to shop the product shown.

• Lotion

Reapplication with a lotion is my preferred method because it’s a 2 in 1 moisturizing and protective step and you’re likely to get the best application since it’s easy to measure the quantity. If you’re worried about makeup or wanna go hands-free, I recommend packing your SPF in a ziplock bag with a clean beauty blender or foundation brush for easy reapplication.

• Powder

This is a perfect reapplication method for all of my on-the-go babes. When you’re using a sunscreen powder be sure to check that your product is loaded into the brush head before you begin. Get maximum protection by making multiple passes over your skin for a full, even coverage.

• Stick

Sunscreen sticks are great for sweating and swimming, or for easy hand/body reapplication. As with any ‘alternative’ reapplication method, ensure that you’re getting adequate protection by applying multiple layers.

• Spray

SPF sprays are convenient, hydrating, be sure to really douse yourself in this and get dewy. When using a body sunscreen spray, it is best to rub in the product after a hefty spray in order to make sure you’re creating an even shield.

Stay safe and dewy this summer. XOXO,

Kristen

Sources:

Diffey BL. When should sunscreen be reapplied? J Am Acad Dermatol. 2001 Dec;45(6):882-5. doi: 10.1067/mjd.2001.117385. PMID: 11712033.

Venosa, A. (2021, June 9). Reapply on the Fourth of July. The Skin Cancer Foundation. https://www.skincancer.org/blog/reapply-on-the-fourth-of-july/

If you’ve experienced acne then you’re likely familiar with the art of extractions or you’ve possibly attempted them on your own. Be warned; home extractions often lead to more harm than good so leaving it up to the professionals is your best bet. Day to day, acne patches are amazing to help support your healing process by keeping your skin protected, moist, and drawing out edema. So, what are professional extractions? How do they differ from picking? Why should I keep my hands off of my face, you might ask?

Well, our hands carry loads of bacteria and transmit microorganisms between people, pets, inanimate objects, and our environments. This is exactly why frequent hand washing is so important. Many bacteria are harmless, although there are also many harmful microbes that can be spread by our hands including;

• Staphylococcus aureus (including MRSA)
• Streptococcus pyogenes (Group A Strep)
• Vancomycin-resistant Enterococcus (VRE)
• Klebsiella
• Enterobacter
• Pseudomonas
• Clostridium difficile
• Candida

Hygiene aside, touching your face and attempting home extractions (aka picking) often causes more harm than good. Improper extractions can lead to spread of bacteria, damaging your follicle (aka pore) walls, inducing more inflammation, breakouts, and possibly post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, scarring, or both. All while prolonging your body’s healing process.

I recommend popping on a mighty patch to keep your skin clean, protected, and leave extractions to the professionals. Pro tip: Rather than using your patches on dry skin, apply your moisturizers underneath. Then, when you’re ready to remove them at the end of the day or in the morning, hop in the shower to cleanse and allow the mighty patch to get waterlogged so that it will easily slip off rather than peeling off the patch (and potentially your skin).

In terms of professional treatments, one of the best ways to control breakouts is to get regular facials with extractions. Do they hurt? Yes. Do they help? Yes. Continue reading to get the 411 on professional extractions.

What are extractions? 

An extraction is the process of clearing a clogged or compacted pore by manual or mechanical means. 

How do they help?

The benefits of facial extractions include an even, clear complexion, less congestion, better product absorption and efficacy, and less breakouts in the future. If performed successfully, the extraction may contribute to a reduction in inflamed acne lesions.

When is the best time to get extractions?

For females, it is best to remove the comedones at the time of ovulation, prior to the reduction of the size of the sebaceous orifice and epidermal barrier function, to counteract the onset of increased sebum production, prevent blockage of the pores and subsequent bacterial colonization and inflammation.

Sounds perfect, right? Ready to book a facial? Our Treatment Facial is customizable and is a great way to reset and remove what could become breakouts down the line. Click here to book with one of our estheticians and get on the path to acne management.

XO,

Kristen

Sources:

Steventon K. Expert opinion and review article: The timing of comedone extraction in the treatment of premenstrual acne–a proposed therapeutic approach. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2011 Apr;33(2):99-104. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00610.x. Epub 2010 Aug 30. PMID: 20807258.

Most of us have had to deal with acne at some point or another as it is a common chronic inflammatory skin condition that affects about 89% of adolescents, and often persists into adulthood due to a myriad of reasons.

Before we dive in deeper to acne and it’s causes, let’s take a look at the appendage of the skin central to acne development: the Sebaceous Gland.

The Sebaceous Gland

A sebaceous gland secretes sebum, the skin’s oily substance. These glands are found within the dermis and are typically attached to a hair follicle.

Sebaceous glands that aren’t associated with a hair follicle open directly onto the surface of the skin via a duct. These are called sebaceous follicles and are typically found around the upper lip and corners of the mouth, the chest, back and genital area.

On the face and scalp, there are as many as 400-900 sebaceous glands per square centimetre — compared to just 100 glands per square cm on average for other areas of the body. This explains why we tend to feel more “oily” on our face (and in particular, the t-zone) compared to elsewhere on our bodies.

Note that sebum is NOT the same as sweat. While sweat is primarily water, sebum is made up of triglycerides, fatty acids, wax esters, squalene, and cholesterol.

As estheticians we typically hear clients complain about sebum but, it actually plays an important role in skin health. In particular, it helps lubricate and protect the skin, as well as prevent a certain level of dehydration. However, when sebum production becomes imbalanced problems can begin to arise in the skin.

Causes of Acne

While many factors can lead to the development of acne, the mechanism that causes all acne is the same. Essentially, a combination of corneocytes (hardened, late-stage keratinocytes) and sebum build up within a follicle and block oxygen from entering — creating an ideal environment for the anaerobicbacteria c. acnes (previously p. acnes) to proliferate. In some cases, this blockage can become inflammatory trigger an immune response).

Note: Acne bacteria was recently reclassified from p. acnes to c. acnes with the recent discovery that this bacteria is not more present within the skin of those who suffer from acne — but actually it is more likely to become inflammatory due to the specific conditions of one’s skin. It is the presence of an inflammatory response to c. acnes bacteria that makes a skin condition truly acne vulgaris

The sebum and skin cells within a follicle react with the c. acnes bacteria present, causing it to proliferate and increasing the likelihood that an infection will develop. An infection triggers our natural immune response: white blood cells rush to the area to heal the infection, inflaming the surrounding cells and increasing sebum production, which can further block oxygen from the pore. In turn the inflammation increases, which can create pustular or cystic acne in more severe cases.

There are many factors that can lead to or contribute to the conditions that result in acne. Some common ones include:

-Use of heavy cosmetics

-Candida overgrowth in the gut

-Hormonal imbalances or fluctuations in androgen levels (caused by hypothyroidism, poly-cystic ovarian syndrome, or even a normal menstrual cycle)

-Stress (which triggers the overproduction of cortisol, resulting in increased sebum production)

-Food sensitivities (for example, dairy, sugar and gluten may trigger inflammation)

-Overly drying or “stripping” products that disrupt the skin’s natural moisture factor (aka the NMF) causing overproduction of sebum

-Genetic predisposition

-Environmental factors such as humidity or pollution

-Over keratinization (build-up of corneocyte cells in the stratum corneum)

-Fatty, rich or fried foods (may contribute to higher levels of inflammatory fatty acids within sebum).

Types of Acne

1. Open Comedones (aka blackheads):Follicles that have formed a block or “plug”of sebum at the surface of the skin. Exposure to the environment causesoxidation of the sebum, creating the darkgrey or black colour.
2. Closed Comedones (aka whiteheads):Similar to open comedones, however, a layerof corneocyte cells are protecting thesebum plug from oxygen exposure andoxidization.
3. Papules: Pimples that appear as a red and elevatedbump on the skin. They develop whensebum and keratinocyte build up and c.acnes inflammation begins to form underthe skin.
4. Pustules: Papules that have become overburdenedwith sebum and bacteria, causing visibleinflammation of the follicle – including pus(what we see as a “white head”)that appears at the surface of the skin.
5. Cysts: Large, deep pustules that form when thecontents of the pustule burst through thefollicle wall, causing a spread ofinfection into the surrounding areas underthe skin. They usually appear as a large, redor boil-like lump at the surface of the skin.
6. Nodules: Similar to cysts, nodules are pustules formed deep under the skin – however, they have not yet “burst” through the follicle wall. Instead, with no place to go, the inflammatory contents harden and nodules appear as large, skin colored or red lumps under the skin. Their depth makes them difficult to treat and they can often take weeks or even months to heal.

Grades of Acne

Grade 1 acne is considered MILD ACNE and is characterized by the presence of comedones (i.e. blackheads and white heads), and a few or infrequent papules and pustules.

Grade 2 acne is considered MODERATE ACNE and is characterized by the presence of comedones like in grade 1, as well as more consistent papules and pustules. Bothgrade 1 and 2 acne is typically confined tothe face.

Grade 3 acne is considered MODERATE TO SEVERE ACNE and is characterized by the presence of papules and pustules, as well asoccasional cysts or nodules. Grade 3 acnemay also present on the back and chest.

Grade 4 acne is considered SEVERE NODULOCYSTIC ACNE. Grade 4 acne is characterized by large, painfulpustules, cysts and nodules with significant inflammation. Often grade 4 acne will spreadto the back and chest as well.

Acne Management

While there is no cure for acne, it can be managed with lifestyle modifications and by the skincare products we use. Acne is very complex and there are usually multiple nuanced factors contributing to active acne- I highly recommend consulting with a professional before taking matters into your own hands.

Although it can be really frustrating, the good news is that all acne is essentially the same in that it starts with a clogged pore, and there are universal steps that can be taken for relief.

 It can be so tempting, but the most important step is to avoid picking or popping pimples. First, we’re interrupting the natural healing process and actually prolonging the condition. We’re also likely to spread the acne bacteria, giving it the opportunity to clog surrounding pores. And most importantly, we run the risk of rupturing the pore wall and spreading the infection further under the skin – which causes cysts and nodules. These more severe forms of acne take longer to heal and are more likely to scar due to being inflamed for a longer period of time. Post Inflammatroy Erythema (PIH) are the pesky post acne marks that linger for months or years, and are usually what bothers us the most about our acne.

Touching or picking at an acne lesion is a guarantee that there will be PIH left behind even once the acne is healed. While I know simple ‘not picking’ isn’t the quick fix you were hoping for, I promise consistency here is key when it comes to acne.

Ice your face! Using a cold compress multiple times a day helps bring down inflammation and relief from painful acne lesions.Always use a barrier on your skin and note that your face should never hurt from using ice.

Sunscreen sunscreen sunscreen. The more you apply, the less inflammation, and the less likelihood of scarring.

Hydrocolloid patches like the one from Hero Cosmetics https://www.sapienskin.com/collections/acne/products/mighty-patch are helpful in aiding the healing process and reducing inflammation aka lessening the chances of scarring.

Minimize inflammation in your diet. Sugar, gluten, alcohol and dairy are the biggest sources of inflammation from what we put in our mouths.

Stress management. The emotional and physical effects of stress take a toll on our bodies and can exacerbate acne.

Minimize bacteria being introduced to your face. This includes any type of face touching by any object, frequently changing pillow cases (3x a week), using bleach on towels and bedding, cleaning makeup brushes, washing your hands before washing your face, cleansing your scalp daily, and double cleansing your face in the shower twice daily.

For everything else related to your own personal acne management, it truly comes down to your unique needs and triggers. This almost always requires professional guidance so that you can get a skin education that lasts a lifetime.

I have personally suffered from acne for years, but after making some changes, I now manage my skin health with ease so I can get back to living my best life. The emotional and physical toll of acne is worth investing in yourself.

Love, Jess

Facial massage not only feels amazing, but it also relieves tension, reduces stress, and increases circulation which plays an important role in skin aging. Many of us tend to hold stress in our faces and frequent facial massages are great for both relaxation and skin health. Who doesn’t love a little TLC with the science to back it up?

One of the challenges that we face due to aging is a decrease in circulation, which includes reduced blood flow to our skin. This is important because nourishment is brought to basal cells in the epidermis from the blood vessels (aka capillaries) found in the dermis. These blood nutrients such as carbohydrates, proteins, fats, water, and oxygen are all necessary for our cells to function properly. It has been shown that as we age skin blood flow decreases significantly. There is about a 40% reduction from ages 20-70 years old (Tsuchida, 1993). This likely reflects age-related changes in the microcirculation throughout the body.

“The microcirculation is defined as the blood flow through arterioles, capillaries and venules, which are the smallest vessels in the vasculature and are embedded within organs and tissues. Microcirculation provides tissue perfusion, fluid homeostasis, delivery of oxygen and other nutrients, as well as controlling temperature and the inflammatory response. Age-associated delays in microvascular responses to stressors lead to impairments in processes that are pivotal for wound healing” (Bentov, I., & Reed, M. J. (2015).

As with all other components of healthy skin, it cannot be achieved without a focus on overall health. Other strategies that can help to improve the function of microcirculation include; physical activity, optimizing inflammatory responses, and attention to deficiencies in growth factors, sex steroids, or the extracellular matrix.

As for the blood flow to your skin, a 2018 study showed that five minutes of facial massage produces short term effects of increased skin blood flow to the treated area for at least ten minutes after the massage. Continuous massage over a five-week period had long term effects on skin blood flow and vasodilation. These results imply that long-term continuous facial massages may improve the skin’s vascular function through the residual effects. This means better healing, better functioning cells, and happier glowing skin.

Benefits of regular facial massage:

• Relieves tension in facial muscles
• May help increase circulation when done regularly
• Increased blood flow accelerates healing in the skin
• Increased blood flow to the tissue helps to nourish, heal and hydrate your skin

Wether you’re receiving professional facial massage or giving yourself one at home, the main goal is to manipulate the tissue, relieve tension, and increase circulation. A few guidelines I’d recommend for self-massage are to use a product for slip and moisture, work in upward motions, and find what feels good for you. Tools such as gua-sha stones and massage rollers are optional, although not necessary. Your hands are the best tool you could ask for. So, get in there with your serums, moisturizers, masks, or while cleansing your face in the shower and treat yourself to a facial massage. You’ll be glowing in no time.

My favorite home-care products for massage medium;

And if you’re looking for a pro facial massage, you’re in the perfect place. At Sapien, our facials are fully customizable and can be massage focused upon request (P.S. it’s as amazing as it sounds). Click here to read our facial FAQs and schedule your appointment.

XO,

Kristen

Sources:

Bentov, I., & Reed, M. J. (2015). The effect of aging on the cutaneous microvasculature. Microvascular research, 100, 25–31. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.mvr.2015.04.004

Holowatz, L. A., Thompson-Torgerson, C., & Kenney, W. L. (2010). Aging and the control of human skin blood flow. Frontiers in bioscience (Landmark edition), 15(2), 718–739. https://doi.org/10.2741/3642

Tsuchida Y. The effect of aging and arteriosclerosis on human skin blood flow. J Dermatol Sci. 1993 Jun;5(3):175-81. doi: 10.1016/0923-1811(93)90764-g. PMID: 8241073.

Miyaji A, Sugimori K, Hayashi N. Short- and long-term effects of using a facial massage roller on facial skin blood flow and vascular reactivity. Complement Ther Med. 2018 Dec;41:271-276. doi: 10.1016/j.ctim.2018.09.009. Epub 2018 Sep 14. PMID: 30477852.

When it comes to safe and healthy sun habits, the best thing that you can do for yourself is to create a strategy and stick to it. While we know that it’s essential to be diligent with your sunscreen year round, clothing is the most reliable option for UV protection, especially during the summer months. It requires no reapplication, provides consistent coverage, and you can look cute while doing it. Enter; UPF clothing and Bluestone Shields. If you’ve seen us at Sapien then you’re no stranger to Bluestone Sunshields and you’re probably well aware of our love for them. This is because they’re the ultimate UPF protection for your skin and we highly recommend them to everyone to protect your investment.

How does UPF differ from SPF?

UPF measures the amount of UV radiation that can penetrate fabric and reach your skin. Sun Protection Factor, or SPF, is based on the time it takes for UV-exposed skin to redden; if you burn after 20 minutes, if used correctly, an SPF 15 sunscreen may protect your skin 15 times longer. Another important distinction: UPF measures both UVB and UVA rays, while SPF measures only UVB. This is why it’s important to search for UVA/UVB broad spectrum protection in a sunscreen. For a deeper dive on UV radiation and the importance of sunscreen, click here to read “Why You Should Wear SPF Everyday (and reapply)”

Factors that affect UPF rating in clothing:

(Source: Skin Cancer Foundation – Sun Protective Clothing)

• Color: Dark or bright colors keep UV rays from reaching your skin by absorbing them rather than allowing them to penetrate. That’s why these colors offer better protection than lighter shades.

• Construction: Densely woven cloth, like denim, canvas, wool or synthetic fibers, are more protective than sheer, thin or loosely woven cloth. Check a fabric’s sun safety by holding it up to the light. If you can see through, UV radiation can easily penetrate the fabric and reach your skin.

• Content: The composition of your fabric really matters. Unbleached cotton contains natural lignins that act as UV absorbers. Shiny polyesters and even lightweight satiny silks can be highly protective because they reflect radiation. High-tech fabrics treated with chemical UV absorbers or dyes prevent some penetration from UV rays. Fabrics that have the highest UPF 50+ rating are lycra/elastanes, plastic, and nylon while polyester and cotton provide less consistent UPF.

• Fit: Loose-fitting apparel is preferable. Tight clothing can stretch and reduce the level of protection offered, as the fibers pull away from each other and allow more UV light to pass through.

• UPF: Some clothing makers provide UPF labels, which indicate exactly how much of the sun’s rays the garment can shield. Look for our Seal of Recommendation whenever you shop.

• Coverage: The more skin your outfit covers, the better your protection. Whenever possible, choose long-sleeved shirts and long pants or skirts.

• Activity: Regardless of UPF, if your clothing gets stretched or wet, it will lose some of its protective ability and become more transparent, exposing your skin to more UV light.

UPF hats and shields:

Basal cell and squamous cell carcinomas are the most common form of skin cancer, accounting for about 90 percent of all skin cancers, and often appear on the head and neck. Wide brimmed hats and sun shields help to protect your scalp and face from dangerous UV rays. As with clothing, not all hats and UV visors are created equally. Be sure to search for hats that are wide brimmed, tightly woven, and shields that offer adequate UV protection.

• Wide brim: The best hats for sun protection have a brim of at least four inches to shade the face, scalp, neck, shoulders, upper back, tops of the ears and back of the neck. We recommend 9 inches for full face coverage.

• Tight knit: Look for a tightly woven hat rather than a loosely constructed straw hat that lets in the UV radiation.

UPF clothing, hats, and shields that we love:

Cynthia Rowley Wetsuits and Rash guards

https://cynthiarowley.com/collections/wetsuits-2

• SPF 50+
• Fabric content: 80% neoprene, 20% nylon

Lack of Color hats

https://lackofcolor.com/collections/all

• UPF 50+
• Wide brimmed options

Bluestone Sunshield

https://www.sapienskin.com/products/lux-shield

• Blocks 99% UVA/UVB/UVC rays
• Protects from Blue Light
• ANSI Z80.3 Approved (American National Standards Institute)
• Heat Resistant / Adjustable / Transparent Lens
• Ideal for long days in the sun, post- treatment protection, and ultimate sun protection

• Bluestone Sunshields start with the same processes of mixing UV filtering material into the lens. The processes allows for 99.0% UV rays to blocked.  For the Clear Lux Shield, after this step the lens would then go into production.

• Anything with a tint or color treatment has a few extra steps which also add additional blocking capabilities.  Our Black Lux Shields have UV Blocking + Tint which allows for closer to 99.5% and our Colored Shields (Rainbow, Chrome, Mermaid) have Color Treatment + UV Blocking + Tint which allows for closer to 99.9% UV Blocking.”

Remember, healthy is sexy! Stay safe this summer and you can look cute while doing it.

For more UPF clothing, follow these links from the Skin Cancer Foundation; “To help you choose your sun-safe products, look for The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Recommendation and check our Product Finder.”

XOXO,

Kristen

Sources:

Gambichler, T., Altmeyer, P., & Hoffmann, K. (2002). Role of clothes in sun protection. Recent results in cancer research. Fortschritte der Krebsforschung. Progres dans les recherches sur le cancer, 160, 15–25. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-59410-6_3

Adam J. (1998). Sun-protective clothing. Journal of cutaneous medicine and surgery, 3(1), 50–53. https://doi.org/10.1177/120347549800300115

Sun Protective Clothing. The Skin Cancer Foundation. (2021, May 28). https://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-prevention/sun-protection/sun-protective-clothing/ 

FAQ. (n.d.). Bluestonesunshield. Retrieved 2022, from https://www.bluestonesunshields.com/faq

You know we LOVE our sunscreen at Sapien. However, as bonafide skin care junkies, we also can’t be asked to live without retinol, antioxidants, cleanser, moisturizer, and exfoliation. These are key products that almost always must be accounted for in order to have a comprehensive routine that will harmoniously cleanse, protect, heal, hydrate, renew, and nourish our skin.

It’s important to note that selecting your own routine, cherry picking your routine, not using professional products, using products with zero or low efficacy, or skipping your routine altogether will not generate results. Depending on what you’re using and where your skin is at, sometimes this can even make situations worse.

The answer to most skin related questions is, “well that depends,” because there are a multitude of factors coming into play.

In order to create results we must master the art of daily skin care at home. 

Our skin  almost instantaneously reflects back to us our actions and our environment because it takes on the most damage, and receives the least support from our body while being our largest organ, and also a protective barrier from our surroundings. This incredible organ is a real time mirror, and needs support from all of our other systems in order to function optimally. 

Our skin continues to improve the most with daily care because that is simply what it requires. Continually protecting your skin from light (aka radiation), supplementing topically with daily vitamins, antioxidants and moisture, as well as removing debris and build up has the most meaningful impact on our skin. Skipping one day of your routine, or just one sunscreen application, can set you back.

Everyone wants one product and one treatment, but that does not exist. In order to create results, we must diligently follow the instructions provided by our skincare professional on a daily basis. Home-care (especially sunscreen) is where the bulk of your results will come from because or skin requires consistent daily support.

Coming to monthly treatments alone will get you no where, and you may not be eligible for most regenerative skincare treatments without proper use of home-care. This isn’t to gate keep or to up-sell you, but to keep you and your skin safe and healthy. Once you have mastered home-care and are also incorporating treatments and practicing a healthy lifestyle, that’s when exciting physical changes start to happen.

It’s a marathon, not a race. You got this babe.

With Love,

Jess

Sunless tanning has famously been marketed as a healthy alternative to tanning induced by ultraviolet radiation. However, there is data to support that dihydroxyacetone (DHA), the active tanning agent in sunless tanning products may have adverse health effects.

There is no such thing as a healthy tan.

DHA causes a “Malliard reaction” when contacting proteins in the outer layer of the epidermis. During the Malliard reaction, sugars in DHA react with cell proteins causing oxidation of the sugar derivatives, which causes a cascade of chain reactions leading to cell trauma and free radical injury to the skin.

DNA glycation is a process of reducing sugars that damage nucleic acids and then create Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs). AGEs are formed via the Maillard reaction caused by DHA.

Excessive amounts of AGEs in body tissues or circulation can become pathogenic, causing oxidative stress and inflammation, which alter the structure and function of proteins. AGEs have been associated with the development of chronic degenerative disorders such as Alzheimer’s and cardiovascular disease.

Aside from the damage our DNA takes on from DHA, there are other risks associated for consumers who spray tan.

The FDA has not approved the use of DHA products applied via aerosols because of exposure to areas such as eyes, lips, nose, mouth. Some physicians have expressed concern about spray tan use increasing the risk of pulmonary diseases, asthma, and cancer.

Undoubtedly, there are consequences that come with fake tanning, whether it comes as a lotion or an aerosol.

So what can you do?

Throw away the mindset that tanning is an ideal beauty standard, and start to see it for what it really is, because it is in fact an injury to your skin that leads to premature aging.

Remember to always wear protective clothing, sunscreen like this one https://www.sapienskin.com/collections/sun-care/products/classic-body-spf-30-pina-colada, and get your skin checked regularly by a dermatologist. Your natural skin tone is beautiful, and your health should always be your first choice.

Bursting your Bubble With Love, 

Jess 

B;, Petersen AB;Wulf HC;Gniadecki R;Gajkowska. “Dihydroxyacetone, the Active Browning Ingredient in Sunless Tanning Lotions, Induces DNA Damage, Cell-Cycle Block and Apoptosis in Cultured HaCaT Keratinocytes.” Mutation Research, U.S. National Library of Medicine, https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15157655/. 

Gallagher, Mary. “Exposure to Dihydroxyacetone in Sunless Tanning Products:… : Journal of the Dermatology Nurses’ Association.” LWW, https://journals.lww.com/jdnaonline/fulltext/2018/01000/exposure_to_dihydroxyacetone_in_sunless_tanning.2.aspx. 

What to do when things get hairy… 

When it comes to methods of hair management, laser hair reduction holds a special place in my heart. There is minimal downtime, low maintenance, and long-lasting results, and it can be totally tolerable in the pain department.

What is laser hair reduction? 

LASER is an acronym that stands for Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation. Laser hair reduction is a procedure that uses a laser; a concentrated beam of light, to remove unwanted hair.  During this treatment, the laser emits a light that is absorbed by the pigment (melanin) in the hair. The light energy is converted to heat, which damages the hair follicles and as a result inhibits or delays future hair growth. There are various laser hair reduction options utilizing wavelengths that have been proven to be effective. This includes the ruby, alexandrite, diode, and Nd:YAG lasers and intense pulsed light (IPL).

How does it work?

During laser hair reduction a laser beam passes through the skin to its target or chromophore; an individual hair follicle. The intense heat of the laser damages the hair follicle, which inhibits future hair growth. After the treatment, the follicles are damaged and unable to produce new hairs or can produce only very thin, tiny hairs that are virtually invisible.

Laser Hair Reduction Mechanisms:

• Selective photothermolysis; melanin in the hair is the chromophore (target) which absorbs laser light energy
• Hair conduction theory; a significant amount of heat is conducted through the hair shaft and follicle causing thermal damage
• Extended theory of selective photothermolysis; follicular stem cells in the bulge and dermal papilla are secondary targets by heat diffusion

“The theory of selective photothermolysis enables precise targeting of pigmented hair follicles by using the melanin of the hair shaft as a chromophore. To achieve permanent hair removal, the biologic “target” is the follicular stem cells located in the bulge region and/or dermal papilla. Due to the slight spatial separation of the chromophore and desired target, an extended theory of selective photothermolysis was proposed that requires the diffusion of heat from the chromophore to the desired target for destruction.”(George J. Hruza MD, MBA, in Lasers and Lights: Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology, 2018)

Hair follicles are continually cycling through three phases: anagen (growth phase), catagen (transitional phase), and telogen (resting phase). Hair is most susceptible to this treatment while it is in the anagen phase. Due to this timing it’s not possible for any laser treatment to achieve 100% hair removal, however it is possible to significantly reduce the number of growing hairs. For this reason, multiple treatments are recommended in order to target as many follicles in the anagen phase as possible.

Results

Results vary significantly from person to person depending on a number of factors. Most people experience hair removal that lasts for several months or even years. However, laser hair reduction doesn’t guarantee permanent hair removal. Initially, multiple treatments are needed for optimal results, and maintenance treatments may be needed for long-term hair reduction. As with all other treatments, there is no one-size-fits-all when it comes to a treatment plan for laser hair reduction. It will differ depending on these hair reduction efficacy factors;

• Skin type (Fitzpatrick)
• Hair type (color, thickness)
• Hair topography (depths, density)
• Hair growth stage (anagen, catagen, telogen)
• Ethnicity
• Gender
• Age
• Hormonal background

This is why we require a thorough consultation in order to receive laser hair reduction treatments at Sapien Skin. We’ll map out a plan based on the factors above and determine the right hair reduction device for you, frequency and number of treatments, discuss expectations, cost, and maintenance along with the risks and benefits.

Wanna learn even more? Visit our Laser Hair Reduction FAQ page here

Interested in scheduling a consultation? Click here

XO, 

Kristen

“Soprano Ice Platinum – Laser Hair Removal Device: Almalasers.” Alma Lasers, 29 Nov. 2021, https://www.almalasers.com/alma-products/soprano-ice-platinum-edition/. 

Laser hair removal – Mayo Clinic. (2022, May 4). Mayo Clinic. https://www.mayoclinic.org/tests-procedures/laser-hair-removal/about/pac-20394555

Laser hair removal: FAQs. (2021, November 22). AAD. https://www.aad.org/public/cosmetic/hair-removal/laser-hair-removal-faqs

Haedersdal M, Wulf HC. Evidence-based review of hair removal using lasers and light sources. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2006 Jan;20(1):9-20. doi: 10.1111/j.1468-3083.2005.01327.x. PMID: 16405602.

Bhargava, A. (2012, November 27). Beauty and the Geek: The Engineering Behind Laser Hair Removal – USC Viterbi School of Engineering. Illumin Magazine. https://illumin.usc.edu/beauty-and-the-geek-the-engineering-behind-laser-hair-removal/

https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/medicine-and-dentistry/laser-hair-removal

People are not inherently afraid of change, but we’re often afraid of what we may lose when making changes in our lives. However, change does not equal loss. Think back ten years, what are the positive changes that you made to get you to where you are now? Now look forward, who do you want to be? What lifestyle changes are necessary in order to get you there?

Change does not equal loss. When you invest in your health, you gain everything.

More often than not, our long-term happiness is in direct conflict with our short-term happiness. We all want long, beautiful, and healthy lives, and the habits we choose daily are forming our future. This applies in all areas where we’re looking to make lifestyle modifications for the better. Making positive changes for your health can be challenging, but it is one of the best decisions you could ever make. Rather than viewing these changes as giving something up, think of what you’re gaining vs losing. When you change this perspective, you realize that you can have it all.

Whether it comes down to avoiding dietary triggers, alcohol, ditching your foundation, improving your sleep habits, sun hygiene, etc…

You don’t have to be less social or miss out, you can set a good example for the people around you and live in alignment with your goals.

Rather than focusing on the possible inconvenience, embrace that you’re truly working smarter and your future self will thank you. Prevention is key.

Instead of fearing being too high maintenance, embrace that you’re choosing to honor your body’s needs (nothing wrong with high maintenance btw).

You don’t lose anything when you’re investing in your health, you are the one in control. You’re the boss, baby.

You’ll never regret investing in the most important relationship of your life: the one you have with yourself. You deserve the best! Join our healthy skin lifestyle, we’ve created resources for you in order to support you every step of the way. Straight from our hearts to yours.

Where to start? See Learning to Listen.

Scroll through our blog posts, subscribe to our email list for continuous knowledge, and check Sapien Universe for podcasts and recipes. 

Love,

Kristen